North East US Road Trip 2022 - Day 3 - Cape Cod #fiveexplore #northeastusa2022

Monday 30th May – “Seaside Pride” (party face)

The heat was rising across the eastern seaboard and today we headed for the point of Cape Cod – Provincetown. In fact, for me this town is the point in coming to Cape Cod.

The heat was also rising in the car. According to Lyra, UK seating arrangements carried over to the US. Despite our protestations, she threatened to complain for the remainder of the journey if she didn’t get her way. The usual array of distractions was offered, and none worked. However, Nana introduced a new innovation – karaoke using her mobile phone. This involved a significant trade off, swapping the moaning for very loud singing (the same two songs over and over). I quietly reflected on the merits of morning painkillers.

The road around Cape Cod is only a single carriageway in many areas and is to be avoided during the summer due to traffic. However, on this late May Monday most families had headed home so everything was pleasantly quiet. We were able to take in the beautiful sun-kissed scenery and the frequent signs reminding us to respect, remember and honor Memorial Day. A jeep sped by displaying an American Flag the size of a small building.

Near Provincetown large sand dunes sweep skywards at the side of the road. We turned left onto route 6A winding through seaside houses and along the coast towards lands’ end. Rainbow pride signs flew everywhere. This felt like the heart of the liberal world - a shining party capital for LGBTQ+ people. Large images glorified the words of Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Michelle Obama. Advertisements for shows about straight white men and cancel culture complemented restaurant signs warning “my dog bites racists”. Once again, I reflected on the cultural diversity you experience across different states (South Dakota and Kentucky for example, were quite different).

Around the town plastic great white sharks hung from wooden frames, like a scene from Amity in the Jaws films. At the pier large boats prepared to speed commuters back to Boston and tourists out to whales.

Our time in Provincetown seemed to distort around visits to shops. Brisk walks were punctuated by the girls forensically examining jewellery, games, toys, and clothes shops. Commercial street is a road where you throw away the map and lose yourself in the cornucopia of restaurants, colours, people, bars, and entertainment. One puzzle shop sold games from a bygone era in my childhood.

The consumer fest was disrupted by a visit to the Canteen. This small restaurant served succulent breaded cod, mouth-watering lobster rolls and tasty fish tacos. DJs played music out back and revellers started to return from the beach to the centre of town. Provincetown at lunch is a lull between storms – basking in the energy of the night before and embracing the promise of the night to come.

As we made our way back, a range of trinkets, charms and knick-knacks were acquired for dollars a time. We finished at Provincetown Brewing Company with a range of IPAs, sparkly beers, and questionable images of Papa Smurf in the toilet. Each entrance to the unisex restrooms were emblazoned with large, bright letters: “Do You.” The freedom of expression window was wide open.

Back in our overheated car we headed north through a canopy of luminous green trees to race point beach. As we walked down to the beach, it felt like we were entering the Serengeti. Large colourful signs warned us of the perils of feeding wild coyotes and the imminent danger of great white sharks. Voluminous sand dunes parted to reveal the northern most point of cape cod overlooking the Gulf of Maine. Across the sea in Portland unseasonably warm weather was tricking people into swimming in the water and catching hypothermia within 20 minutes.

We warily ventured into the water and gathered colourful stones while making limp sandcastles with our hands. Memorial Day tourists baked in the sun next to us and soon it was time to leave. Once again Lyra moaned about having to leave an attraction she earlier moaned about having to visit.

A quick stop off at a giant drive thru cinema in Wellfleet was the main highlight of our journey home to the usual routine of swimming and dinner. A surprisingly good mid-priced takeaway and a couple of beers was the final act of the day.

Back in the bedroom I admired the live wrestling match between Lyra and Zaria as they struggled for control of the bed covers. Round one to Lyra but more was to follow through the night.

Tonight, I plan to finish my blog before falling aslee….999999999…

Only Joking.