DAY 10: Billings, Montana to Yellowstone, Wyoming via Beartooth Highway #fiveexplore #roadtrip2020

Day 10 – July 26th

We departed late morning like a group of lazy students. Given the intensity of the trip, our only crumb of comfort was not getting up at the crack of dawn. We filled up at a Billings gas station and got back on the road. As we joined the Interstate, I saw what I thought were white clouds but realized it was snow. On top of mountains. In the middle of summer. Within a couple of hours, we would be standing in that snow.

We travelled south to Red Lodge on Route 212 and joined the Beartooth Highway - one of America’s most spectacular roads. Bikers proudly wear t-shirts championing how they conquered this meandering monster. The closer we got to the highway, the larger the Rocky Mountains loomed above us. Our previous trips paled into significance. This was the real deal. Sarah started singing: ‘We’ll be coming round the mountain,’ Alaina enquired about the nearest restroom and Lyra railed against the injustice of another lengthy drive.

The road dipped between the mountains. Thousands of trees stretched upwards. We turned right and the enormity of the vista left my jaw open until Sarah shouted at me to focus on the road. On the car map display the winding road became a series of squiggles. I remembered from South Dakota this meant things were about to get exciting (-or scary for everyone else).

We quickly elevated up a series of jagged roads balanced precariously on precipitous cliff faces. Bending back and forth we ascended to 9,000 ft.

On the ascent we saw various wildlife. Prairie dogs appeared at a parking lay-by. At Rock Creek Viewing Point we fed hordes of chipmunks darting in and out of holes in the rock face.

Below we could see small toy cars where we travelled moments earlier. Opposite were glacier covered mountain tops. We climbed further still (after erroneously telling Lyra we were at the top). Lakes and snow appeared. We were able to park, walk down and stand in the freezing snow in our flip flops. The temperature was now 13c (55f) and it was cold.

Suddenly a white mountain goat appeared from what nowhere and wandered nervously near us. Even stranger, a man walked over from his car dressed in full ski gear and proceeded to propel himself down the mountain.

Higher still we found snow next to a small lake. The children got out, put their shoes on and ran down to play. It was quite the scene watching the family in summer clothes and raincoats building small snowmen at nearly 11,000ft. After carrying Alaina to the car, I noticed it was harder to breath at altitude. Either that or I had COVID. Hopefully the former.

After the peak we gently descended through lakes and bends down into the valleys. Lush green grass, wild summer flowers and babbling streams lined the road. We arrived finally at the northeastern gate to Yellowstone Park. Apparently, this entrance is less busy than the much-used western gate. As the smartly dressed rangers greeted us, it dawned on me I was realizing a long-held dream to visit one of the seven natural wonders of the North America.

After the pre-amble of narrow roads and sweeping backdrops we turned left into Wyoming and soon arrived at the Lamar Valley. This is one of the best places in Yellowstone to see wildlife. The sun kissed grasslands and waterholes created the ambience of an African Safari. It was late afternoon and hordes of bison, buffalo and deer stood yards from our car (best to come early or late in the day if you want to see anything). Four times we had to stop for Bison crossing the road. Baby buffalos stood close to their mothers. The larger males with their rock shaped dark heads are especially foreboding. Remembering a story of how Bison charge large SUVs for fun, I closed my window and gently accelerated away. A regular Yellowstone visitor insisted we had been very lucky to see so much activity.

As we reached the main loop the scenery shifted again. More vegetation enabled us to see a black bear skulking behind bushes and trees. It was almost impossible to take a photo but impressive to see such a large beast in the wild. At the next main junction, we arrived at Mammoth, a small town near the north entrance. Herds of deer grazed on the grass between buildings and sidewalks. So uniquely Yellowstone.

Nearby we found the Mammoth hot springs, a series of limestone rocks shaped by hot acidic geysers bubbling in the ground. The evening sun made the rocks sparkle a blinding white colour, mixed with shades of orange, yellow and pink. Steam drifted in the evening air. Tourists were advised to avoid the boiling hot streams trickling down to the ground. We took the walkway to Canary Spring, a spectacular formation of white rock and luscious waterfalls. The pungent odour of Sulphur prompted Alaina to search for a source of unwelcome flatulence by smelling everyone.

As the sun set, we chased it towards the western gate. The last section of the northern loop took us past various waterfalls and smoking geysers. In the gathering gloom we wound our windows down to smell the Sulphur. Sarah suddenly sung out, “Eggy Eggy Eggy.” The rest of the family replied, “Oi Oi Oi!” Locals stared at us with incredulity and the car filled with laughter. As we exited Yellowstone, we rejoined the state of Montana. A symmetrical bookend for a memorable day.

At 9pm it was still light as we drove to our hotel. The small town of West Yellowstone buzzed with exuberant tourists. Once again, the density of people felt inappropriate, but who I am to judge motoring across nineteen states with my family in tow?

In addition to this daily blog, you can check out our Instagram feed for more photos and short posts documenting our 2020 road trip @fiveexplore